Tom Cannavan visits Italy’s far northeast to meet Joško Gravner, an enigmatic winemaker who inspires extremes of praise and scepticism alike.
Many things seem to have informed Joško Gravner’s decision, or decisions, to radically change his winemaking direction over the years. Those meant risking everything: his reputation, his thriving business, perhaps even his friends.
Today, Gravner is one of the most revered cult names of Italian winemaking, following a rigorous natural winemaking philosophy. The wine world – not just Italy – pays attention to what he does, and many follow his example. But it was not always thus.
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Y2lvbiBhbmQsIEkgc3VzcGVjdCwgZmVhciB0aGF0IHRoZSBGcml1bGkgYXBwbGUgY2FydCB3YXMgYmVpbmcgc28gZGVjaXNpdmVseSBvdmVydHVybmVkLiBJdCB3YXMgYSBzaG9jayBmb3IgZm9sbG93ZXJzIG9mIHRoZSBlc3RhdGUsIHdpdGggbW9yZSB0aGFuIGhhbGYgb2YgaGlzIG92ZXJzZWFzIGRpc3RyaWJ1dG9ycyBjYW5jZWxsaW5nIHRoZWlyIG9yZGVycyBpbiB0aGUgd2FrZSBvZiB0aGUgPGVtPkdhbWJlcm8gUm9zc288L2VtPiBhcnRpY2xlLiBUaGF0LCBwb2ludHMgb3V0IEdyYXZuZXIsIHdhcyB3aXRob3V0IGhhdmluZyB0YXN0ZWQgdGhlIHdpbmVzLjwvcD4KPHA+R3Jhdm5lciBpcyBhIHF1aWV0LCBzZWVtaW5nbHkgcmVzZXJ2ZWQgY2hhcmFjdGVyLCBhIGNvbWJpbmF0aW9uIG9mIGh1bWJsZSBmYXJtZXIgaW4gaGlzIHdvcmtpbmcgY2xvdGhlcyBhbmQgbXVkZHkgYm9vdHMsIGFuZCBKZXN1aXQgc2Nob2xhciB3aXRoIGEga2VlbiBpbnRlbGxpZ2VuY2Ugc2hpbmluZyBiZWhpbmQgaGlzIGV5ZXMuIENsZWFybHksIGhlIGlzIGJvdGggZGVlcGx5IHRob3VnaHRmdWwgYW5kIHN0dWJib3JubHkgc2luZ2xlLW1pbmRlZC4gQXMgY3VzdG9tZXJzIHNsb3dseSBiZWdhbiB0byBhcHByZWNpYXRlIGhpcyBuZXcgYW1iZXItY29sb3VyZWQgd2luZXMsIGhlIGV4dGVuZGVkIGhpcyBtYWNlcmF0aW9uIGZvciBsb25nZXIgYW5kIGRlbHZlZCBkZWVwZXIgaW50byB0aGUgb2xkZXN0IHdpbmUgcHJvZHVjdGlvbiBtZXRob2RzLCBjdWxtaW5hdGluZyBpbiBhIHRyaXAgdG8gR2VvcmdpYSBpbiAyMDAwLjwvcD4KPGRpdiBjbGFzcz0iYWQtY29udGFpbmVyIGFkLWNvbnRhaW5lci0tbW9iaWxlIj48ZGl2IGlkPSJwb3N0LWlubGluZS00IiBjbGFzcz0iaXBjLWFkdmVydCI+PC9kaXY+PC9kaXY+Cjxocj4KPGgyPjxzdHJvbmc+R3Jhdm5lciBhdCBhIGdsYW5jZTwvc3Ryb25nPjwvaDI+CjxkaXYgY2xhc3M9ImJyZWFrb3V0IHBhbGV0dGUtYSBwYW5lbCBwYW5lbC1kZWZhdWx0Ij48ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSJwYW5lbC1ib2R5Ij48ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSdicmVha291dC1jb250ZW50Jz48dWw+CjxsaT4KPHN0cm9uZz5Gb3VuZGVkPC9zdHJvbmc+IDE5MDE8L2xpPgo8bGk+CjxzdHJvbmc+TG9jYXRpb248L3N0cm9uZz4gT3NsYXZpYSwgaW4gRnJpdWxpOyB2aW5leWFyZHMgaW4gSXRhbGlhbiBDb2xsaW8gYW5kIFNsb3ZlbmlhbiBCcmRhPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPlVuZGVyIHZpbmU8L3N0cm9uZz4gMThoYTwvbGk+CjxsaT4KPHN0cm9uZz5WaW5leWFyZHM8L3N0cm9uZz4gUnVuayBpbiBJdGFseTsgSHVtIGFuZCBEZWRubyBpbiBTbG92ZW5pYTwvbGk+CjxsaT4KPHN0cm9uZz5WaXRpY3VsdHVyZTwvc3Ryb25nPiBGYXJtZWQgb3JnYW5pY2FsbHkgYW5kIGJhc2VkIG9uIGx1bmFyIGNhbGVuZGFyPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPlZpbmlmaWNhdGlvbjwvc3Ryb25nPiBBbGwgZmVybWVudGF0aW9uIGluIGFtcGhvcmFlLCB3aXRoIHdpbGQgeWVhc3RzIGFuZCBubyB0ZW1wZXJhdHVyZSBjb250cm9sLiBBbGwgd2luZXMgaGF2ZSBza2luIGNvbnRhY3QgbWFjZXJhdGlvbiBvZiBhYm91dCBzaXggbW9udGhzLiBSaWJvbGxhIGJvdHRsZWQgYWZ0ZXIgYW4gZXh0cmEgc2l4IHllYXJzIGluIGxhcmdlIGNhc2tzLiBSaXNlcnZhIHJlbGVhc2VkIGFmdGVyIGV4dHJhIGZvdXIgeWVhcnMgaW4gY2FzayBhbmQgc2l4IHllYXJzIGluIGJvdHRsZS4gUm9zc28gcmVsZWFzZWQgYWZ0ZXIgZXh0cmEgZml2ZSB5ZWFycyBpbiBjYXNrIGFuZCBmaXZlIHllYXJzIGluIGJvdHRsZTwvcD4KPC9kaXY+PGRpdiBjbGFzcz0nYnJlYWtvdXQtYnV0dG9ucyc+PGRpdiBjbGFzcz0ncm93Jz48L2Rpdj48L2Rpdj48L2Rpdj48L2Rpdj48L2xpPgo8L3VsPgo8ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSJhZC1jb250YWluZXIgYWQtY29udGFpbmVyLS1tb2JpbGUiPjxkaXYgaWQ9InBvc3QtaW5saW5lLTUiIGNsYXNzPSJpcGMtYWR2ZXJ0Ij48L2Rpdj48L2Rpdj4KPGhyPgo8aDI+PHN0cm9uZz5OZXcgb2JzZXNzaW9uczwvc3Ryb25nPjwvaDI+CjxwPlRoZSB0cmFkaXRpb25hbCB1c2Ugb2YgYW1waG9yYWUsIG9yIHF2ZXZyaSwgYnVyaWVkIHVuZGVyZ3JvdW5kIGJlY2FtZSBoaXMgbmV4dCBvYnNlc3Npb24uIEJ5IDIwMDEsIGFuIGluaXRpYWwgYmF0Y2ggb2YgMTEgb2YgdGhlc2UgbGFyZ2UsIGhhbmRtYWRlLCBlYXJ0aGVud2FyZSB2ZXNzZWxzIG1hZGUgdGhlIHBlcmlsb3VzIG92ZXJsYW5kIHRyaXAgZnJvbSBHZW9yZ2lhIHRvIG5vcnRoZXJuIEl0YWx5LCBhbmQgYSB3aG9sZSBuZXcgcGhhc2Ugb2YgdGhlIEdyYXZuZXIgc3RvcnkgYmVnYW4uPC9wPgo8cD5UaGUgdXNlIG9mIGFtcGhvcmFlIGFuZCBvdGhlciBjbGF5IG9yIGNlbWVudCBwb3RzIHRvIGZlcm1lbnQgYW5kIGFnZSB3aW5lcyBoYXMgdHJlbmRlZCBkcmFtYXRpY2FsbHkgb3ZlciB0aGUgcGFzdCAxMCB5ZWFycyBvciBzbzogaXQgaGFzIHJlYWNoZWQgdGhlIHBvaW50IHdoZXJlIGl0IGlzIHJhcmUgdG8gdmlzaXQgYSB3aW5lIGNlbGxhciB3aXRob3V0IGF0IGxlYXN0IG9uZSBjb25jcmV0ZSBlZ2cgb3IgYW1waG9yYSBzdGFuZGluZyBhbG9uZ3NpZGUgdGhlIHN0ZWVsIHRhbmtzIGFuZCBiYXJyZWxzLiBUaGUgdmFzdCBtYWpvcml0eSBvZiB0aGVzZSBhcmUg4oCYZXhwZXJpbWVudGFs4oCZLCBvciB1c2VkIHRvIG1ha2Ugb25lIHNtYWxsLCBpZGlvc3luY3JhdGljIGN1dsOpZSB0byBzaXQgd2l0aGluIGEgbXVjaCBsYXJnZXIgcG9ydGZvbGlvLiBCdXQgZm9yIEdyYXZuZXIgaXQgd2FzIGRpZmZlcmVudDogYnkgMjAwNSB0aGUgZW50aXJlIHByb2R1Y3Rpb24sIHdoaXRlIGFuZCByZWQsIHdhcyBiZWluZyBtYWRlIGluIGFtcGhvcmEuPC9wPgo8cD5IYWQgR3Jhdm5lciBmaW5hbGx5IGZvdW5kIHBlYWNlPyBIYWQgaGlzIHdpbmVtYWtpbmcgaW5wdXQgYmVlbiByZWR1Y2VkIGVub3VnaCwgdG8gaXRzIG1vc3QgZnVuZGFtZW50YWwgY29uY2x1c2lvbiB3aXRoIG9yZ2FuaWMgZmFybWluZywgbWluaW11bSB1c2Ugb2Ygc3VscGh1ciwgd2lsZCB5ZWFzdHMsIG5vIHRlbXBlcmF0dXJlIGNvbnRyb2wgYW5kIHdob2xlLWJlcnJ5IG1hY2VyYXRpb24\/IEl0IHNlZW1zIG5vdC4gSW4gMjAxMiBjYW1lIGFub3RoZXIgcmFkaWNhbCBkZWNpc2lvbiwgYW5vdGhlciBib21ic2hlbGw6IGV2ZXJ5dGhpbmcgaW4gaGlzIHZpbmV5YXJkcyB3YXMgZ3J1YmJlZCB1cCBleGNlcHQgdGhlIGluZGlnZW5vdXMgUmlib2xsYSBmb3Igd2hpdGUgd2luZXMgYW5kIFBpZ25vbG8gZm9yIHJlZCB3aW5lcy4gT3ZlciB0aGUgeWVhcnMgZmFucyBoYWQgbG92ZWQgaGlzIEJyZWcgQmlhbmNvLCBhIGJsZW5kIG9mIFJpZXNsaW5nLCBQaW5vdCBHcmlnaW8sIFNhdXZpZ25vbiBCbGFuYyBhbmQgQ2hhcmRvbm5heTsgYnV0IGZyb20gMjAxMiwgaXQgd2FzIG5vIG1vcmUuPC9wPgo8ZGl2IGlkPSJhdHRhY2htZW50XzM4MTk4MSIgc3R5bGU9IndpZHRoOiA2NjBweCIgY2xhc3M9IndwLWNhcHRpb24gYWxpZ25ub25lIj48aW1nIGFyaWEtZGVzY3JpYmVkYnk9ImNhcHRpb24tYXR0YWNobWVudC0zODE5ODEiIGNsYXNzPSJsYXp5bG9hZCBibHVyLXVwIHNpemUtZnVsbCB3cC1pbWFnZS0zODE5ODEiIHNyYz0iaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZGVjYW50ZXIuY29tL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdGhlbWVzL3NpbWJhLXRoZW1lL2Fzc2V0cy9pbWFnZXMvcGxhY2Vob2xkZXIucG5nIiBkYXRhLXNyYz0iaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxOC8wMS9HcmF2bmVyLWNsYXktYW1waG9yYWUuanBnIiBhbHQ9IkdyYXZuZXIgY2xheSBhbXBob3JhZSIgd2lkdGg9IjY1MCIgaGVpZ2h0PSI0MzAiIGRhdGEtc2l6ZXM9ImF1dG8iIGRhdGEtc3Jjc2V0PSJodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItY2xheS1hbXBob3JhZS5qcGcgNjUwdywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxOC8wMS9HcmF2bmVyLWNsYXktYW1waG9yYWUtMTM1eDg5LmpwZyAxMzV3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItY2xheS1hbXBob3JhZS0zMDB4MTk4LmpwZyAzMDB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItY2xheS1hbXBob3JhZS02MzB4NDE3LmpwZyA2MzB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItY2xheS1hbXBob3JhZS0zMjB4MjEyLmpwZyAzMjB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItY2xheS1hbXBob3JhZS02MjB4NDEwLmpwZyA2MjB3IiBzaXplcz0iKG1heC13aWR0aDogNjUwcHgpIDEwMHZ3LCA2NTBweCIgLz48cCBpZD0iY2FwdGlvbi1hdHRhY2htZW50LTM4MTk4MSIgY2xhc3M9IndwLWNhcHRpb24tdGV4dCI+R3Jhdm5lciBjb252ZXJ0ZWQgaGlzIGVudGlyZSBwcm9kdWN0aW9uIHRvIGNsYXkgYW1waG9yYWUgYnkgMjAwNS4gQ3JlZGl0OiBBbHZpc2UgQmFyc2FudGk8L3A+PC9kaXY+CjxwPkdyYXZuZXIgcHJvZmVzc2VzIHRvIHNwZWFrIG5vIEVuZ2xpc2gsIGFuZCBhdCB0aW1lcyBJIHN1c3BlY3QgaGlzIGJvcmVkb20gdGhyZXNob2xkIGZvciB0aGUgdHJhbnNsYXRlZCBxdWVzdGlvbnMgYW5kIGFuc3dlcnMgb2YgdGhlIHZpc2l0aW5nIGpvdXJuYWxpc3QgaXMgc2V0IHByZXR0eSBsb3cuIER1cmluZyBhIHZpc2l0IHRvIGhpcyBuZXdlc3QgdmluZXlhcmQgaW4gRGVkbm8sIFNsb3ZlbmlhLCBoZSB3YW5kZXJzIG9mZiBhbW9uZyB0aGUgYmFieSB2aW5lcywgcGx1Y2tpbmcgYSBsZWFmIGhlcmUsIHN0cmFpZ2h0ZW5pbmcgYSBwb3N0IHRoZXJlLCBsZWF2aW5nIGhpcyBndWVzdHMgaW4gdGhlIGNhcGFibGUgaGFuZHMgb2YgaGlzIGRhdWdodGVycyBKYW5hIGFuZCBNYXRlamEuIEF0IHRoZSBhZ2Ugb2YgNjUsIGhlIGp1c3Qgd2FudHMgdG8gZ2V0IG9uIHdpdGggaXQuPC9wPgo8cD5UaGlzIGFpciBvZiBkZXRhY2htZW50IHNob3VsZCBub3QgZm9vbCB5b3UuIEdyYXZuZXIgZG9lc27igJl0IG1pc3MgYSB0cmljayBhbmQgaXMgdXR0ZXJseSBlbmdhZ2VkIHdpdGggaGlzIHdpbmVzIGFuZCBoaXMgYmVsaWVmcy4gVGFzdGluZyB0aGUgQ2hhcmRvbm5heSAxOTkyLCBJIGNvbW1lbnQgb24gaG93IGltcHJlc3NpdmUgaXQgaXMgYXQgMjUgeWVhcnMgb2xkLiDigJhJIG1hZGUgZ29vZCB3aW5lLCBldmVuIGJlZm9yZSBhbXBob3JhLOKAmSBoZSBkZWFkcGFucywgZGlzbWlzc2luZyBpdCBhcyB3b3J0aHksIGJ1dCBhIHJlbGljIG9mIHRoZSBwYXN0LjwvcD4KPHA+TWFraW5nIHdpbmVzIHdpdGggbG9uZyBza2luIGNvbnRhY3QgaXMgYW4gYW5jaWVudCB0cmFkaXRpb24gaW4gdGhpcyBDb2xsaW8gYW5kIEJyZGEgcmVnaW9uIHRoYXQgc3RyYWRkbGVzIEl0YWx5IGFuZCBTbG92ZW5pYSByZXNwZWN0aXZlbHkuIFRvIGFuIGV4dGVudCBHcmF2bmVyIGlzIHJldml2aW5nIGxvY2FsIHRyYWRpdGlvbiwgYW5kIGhpcyBleGFtcGxlIGhhcyBiZWVuIGZvbGxvd2VkIGJ5IG1hbnkgcHJvZHVjZXJzIG9uIGJvdGggc2lkZXMgb2YgdGhlIGJvcmRlci4gQnV0IGhpcyBpbmZsdWVuY2UgaXMgZXZpZGVudCBtdWNoIGZ1cnRoZXIgYWZpZWxkLCBldmVuIGluIGNvdW50cmllcyB3aXRoIG5vIHN1Y2ggaGlzdG9yeSwgZnJvbSBDYWxpZm9ybmlhIHRvIEF1c3RyYWxpYS4gSGUgZGlkIG5vdCBjcmVhdGUgdGhlIOKAmG5hdHVyYWwgd2luZeKAmSBtb3ZlbWVudCBvbiBoaXMgb3duLCBidXQgaGUgaXMgYSByb2xlIG1vZGVsIGZvciBpdC48L3A+CjxwPkkgaGF2ZSByYWNrZWQgbXkgYnJhaW5zIHRvIHRoaW5rIG9mIGFueSBvdGhlciB3aW5lcnkgb3V0c2lkZSBHZW9yZ2lhIHRoYXQgaGFzIHN3aXRjaGVkIDEwMCUgb2YgaXRzIHByb2R1Y3Rpb24gdG8gc2tpbi0gY29udGFjdCB3aW5lcyBpbiBhbXBob3JhLiBTZXZlcmFsIGFyZSBkb2luZyBmYXIgbW9yZSB0aGFuIOKAmHBsYXlpbmfigJkgd2l0aCBhIHZlc3NlbCBvciB0d28g4oCTIEpvc8OpIGRlIFNvdXNhIGluIHRoZSBBbGVudGVqbywgQ09TIGluIFNpY2lseSwgRm9yYWRvcmkgaW4gVHJlbnRpbm8g4oCTIGJ1dCBubyBvdGhlciBzaWduaWZpY2FudCBlc3RhdGUgaGFzIHNvIHJlc29sdXRlbHkgY29tbWl0dGVkIHRvIHRoZXNlIGFuY2llbnQgbWV0aG9kcy4gU29tZXRoaW5nIGVsc2UgbXVzdCBkcml2ZSBHcmF2bmVyIGJleW9uZCBpc3N1ZXMgb2YgYXV0aGVudGljaXR5IGFuZCBxdWFsaXR5LCBhbmQgb24gbXkgdmlzaXQgYSBmZXcgY2x1ZXMgZW1lcmdlZC48L3A+Cjxocj4KPGgyPjxzdHJvbmc+R3Jhdm5lciAmIzgyMTE7IGEgdGltZWxpbmU8L3N0cm9uZz48L2gyPgo8ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSJicmVha291dCBwYWxldHRlLWEgcGFuZWwgcGFuZWwtZGVmYXVsdCI+PGRpdiBjbGFzcz0icGFuZWwtYm9keSI+PGRpdiBjbGFzcz0nYnJlYWtvdXQtY29udGVudCc+PHVsPgo8bGk+CjxzdHJvbmc+MTk3MDwvc3Ryb25nPiBKb8Wha28gR3Jhdm5lciBqb2lucyB0aGUgZmFtaWx5IGJ1c2luZXNzPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjE5ODc8L3N0cm9uZz4gR3Jhdm5lciB2aXNpdHMgQ2FsaWZvcm5pYSBhbmQgdGFzdGVzIDEsMDAwIOKAmGRpc2FwcG9pbnRpbmfigJkgd2luZXM8L2xpPgo8bGk+CjxzdHJvbmc+MTk5Njwvc3Ryb25nPiBFeHRlbnNpdmUgaGFpbCBkYW1hZ2UgbGVhZHMgdG8gZXhwZXJpbWVudGFsIHRyZWF0bWVudCBvZiBSaWJvbGxhPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjE5OTc8L3N0cm9uZz4gRmlyc3QgdmludGFnZSByZWxlYXNlZCBvZiBza2luLW1hY2VyYXRlZCBSaWJvbGxhPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjE5OTk8L3N0cm9uZz4gQWxsIGJhcnJpcXVlcyByZW1vdmVkIGZyb20gY2VsbGFyPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjIwMDA8L3N0cm9uZz4gR3Jhdm5lciB2aXNpdHMgR2VvcmdpYTwvbGk+CjxsaT4KPHN0cm9uZz4yMDAxPC9zdHJvbmc+IEZpcnN0IGFtcGhvcmEgaW1wb3J0ZWQgZnJvbSBHZW9yZ2lhPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjIwMDU8L3N0cm9uZz4gQWxsIHByb2R1Y3Rpb24gaGFzIGJlZW4gbW92ZWQgdG8gYW1waG9yYTwvbGk+CjxsaT4KPHN0cm9uZz4yMDEyPC9zdHJvbmc+IEFsbCBub24tbmF0aXZlIHZpbmVzIGdydWJiZWQgdXAsIGxlYXZpbmcgb25seSBSaWJvbGxhIGFuZCBQaWdub2xvPC9saT4KPGxpPgo8c3Ryb25nPjIwMTc8L3N0cm9uZz4gQWZ0ZXIgbW9yZSB0aGFuIGEgZGVjYWRlIG9mIHByZXBhcmF0aW9uLCBuZXcgdmluZXlhcmRzIGluIFNsb3ZlbmlhIGFyZSBwbGFudGVkPC9wPgo8L2Rpdj48ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSdicmVha291dC1idXR0b25zJz48ZGl2IGNsYXNzPSdyb3cnPjwvZGl2PjwvZGl2PjwvZGl2PjwvZGl2PjwvbGk+CjwvdWw+Cjxocj4KPGgyPjxzdHJvbmc+VW5lcnJpbmcgdmlzaW9uPC9zdHJvbmc+PC9oMj4KPHA+SGF2aW5nIGVhdGVuIGRlbGljaW91cyBidXQgc2ltcGxlIG1lYWxzIG9mIHNvdXAsIGNoZWVzZSBhbmQgaG9tZW1hZGUgc2FsYW1pIGF0IHRoZSBmYW1pbHkgaG9tZSwgSSB3YXMgZW50ZXJ0YWluZWQgb25lIGV2ZW5pbmcgYXQgdGhlIE1pY2hlbGluLXN0YXJyZWQgTGEgU3ViaWRhLCBidXQgR3Jhdm5lciBkaWQgbm90IGpvaW4gdXMuIERhdWdodGVyIE1hdGVqYSBleHBsYWluZWQgdGhhdCBpbiB0aGUgbWlkLTE5OTBzLCB3aGlsZSBjYXJyeWluZyBvdXQgdGhlIGhlYXZ5IHdvcmsgdG8gYnVpbGQgdGhlIHRlcnJhY2VzIGFuZCBwcmVwYXJlIHRoZSBncm91bmQgZm9yIHRoZWlyIG5ldyB2aW5leWFyZHMgaW4gU2xvdmVuaWEsIEdyYXZuZXIgc3VmZmVyZWQgYSBzZXJpb3VzIGZhbGwuIEhlIGluc2lzdGVkIHRoYXQgaGUgZGlkbuKAmXQgbmVlZCB0byBnbyB0byBob3NwaXRhbCwgYnV0IG92ZXJuaWdodCB0aGluZ3MgdG9vayBhIGRyYW1hdGljIHR1cm4gYW5kIGhlIG5lZWRlZCBlbWVyZ2VuY3kgc3VyZ2VyeSBmb3IgZXh0ZW5zaXZlIGludGVybmFsIGluanVyaWVzLiBUaGlzIG5lYXItZGVhdGggbW9tZW50IGxlZnQgaGlzIGRpZ2VzdGl2ZSBzeXN0ZW0gY2hyb25pY2FsbHkgZnJhZ2lsZS4gVG9kYXkgaGUgaXMgZXh0cmVtZWx5IGNhcmVmdWwgYWJvdXQgd2hhdCBoZSBlYXRzIGFuZCBkcmlua3MsIGlzIGEgcGFzc2lvbmF0ZSBhZHZvY2F0ZSBmb3Igb3JnYW5pYyBwcm9kdWNlLCBhbmQgY2FuIG9ubHkgdG9sZXJhdGUgc2ltcGxlIGZvb2RzLjwvcD4KPHA+R3Jhdm5lciBmYXJtcyBvcmdhbmljYWxseSBhbmQgd29ya3Mgc3RyaWN0bHkgYWNjb3JkaW5nIHRvIHRoZSBwaGFzZXMgb2YgdGhlIG1vb24sIGZvbGxvd2luZyB0aGUgY2FsZW5kYXIgb2YgYmlvZHluYW1pY3MgZ3VydSBNYXJpYSBUaHVuLiBZZXQsIGV2ZW4gdGhvdWdoIHNpbXBsaWNpdHkgYW5kIG5hdHVyZSBhcmUgYXQgdGhlIGhlYXJ0IG9mIGhpcyBwaGlsb3NvcGh5LCBoaXMgd2luZXMgYXJlIG5vdCBjZXJ0aWZpZWQgb3JnYW5pYywgYW5kIGhlIGRvZXNu4oCZdCBmb2xsb3cgYWxsIGFzcGVjdHMgb2YgdGhlIGJpb2R5bmFtaWMgc3lzdGVtLjwvcD4KPGRpdiBpZD0iYXR0YWNobWVudF8zODE5ODUiIHN0eWxlPSJ3aWR0aDogNjYwcHgiIGNsYXNzPSJ3cC1jYXB0aW9uIGFsaWdubm9uZSI+PGltZyBhcmlhLWRlc2NyaWJlZGJ5PSJjYXB0aW9uLWF0dGFjaG1lbnQtMzgxOTg1IiBjbGFzcz0ibGF6eWxvYWQgYmx1ci11cCBzaXplLWZ1bGwgd3AtaW1hZ2UtMzgxOTg1IiBzcmM9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS93cC1jb250ZW50L3RoZW1lcy9zaW1iYS10aGVtZS9hc3NldHMvaW1hZ2VzL3BsYWNlaG9sZGVyLnBuZyIgZGF0YS1zcmM9Imh0dHBzOi8va2V5YXNzZXRzLnRpbWVpbmN1ay5uZXQvaW5zcGlyZXdwL2xpdmUvd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzL3NpdGVzLzM0LzIwMTgvMDEvR3Jhdm5lci13aW5lcnktMS5qcGciIGFsdD0iR3Jhdm5lciB3aW5lcnkiIHdpZHRoPSI2NTAiIGhlaWdodD0iNDMwIiBkYXRhLXNpemVzPSJhdXRvIiBkYXRhLXNyY3NldD0iaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxOC8wMS9HcmF2bmVyLXdpbmVyeS0xLmpwZyA2NTB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItd2luZXJ5LTEtMTM1eDg5LmpwZyAxMzV3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItd2luZXJ5LTEtMzAweDE5OC5qcGcgMzAwdywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxOC8wMS9HcmF2bmVyLXdpbmVyeS0xLTYzMHg0MTcuanBnIDYzMHcsIGh0dHBzOi8va2V5YXNzZXRzLnRpbWVpbmN1ay5uZXQvaW5zcGlyZXdwL2xpdmUvd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzL3NpdGVzLzM0LzIwMTgvMDEvR3Jhdm5lci13aW5lcnktMS0zMjB4MjEyLmpwZyAzMjB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDE4LzAxL0dyYXZuZXItd2luZXJ5LTEtNjIweDQxMC5qcGcgNjIwdyIgc2l6ZXM9IihtYXgtd2lkdGg6IDY1MHB4KSAxMDB2dywgNjUwcHgiIC8+PHAgaWQ9ImNhcHRpb24tYXR0YWNobWVudC0zODE5ODUiIGNsYXNzPSJ3cC1jYXB0aW9uLXRleHQiPlRoZSBHcmF2bmVyIHdpbmVyeSwgd2hlcmUgZGF1Z2h0ZXJzIE1hdGVqYSBhbmQgSmFuYSB3b3JrIGFsb25nc2lkZSB0aGVpciBmYXRoZXIgSm\/FoWtvLiBDcmVkaXQ6IEFsdmlzZSBCYXJzYW50aTwvcD48L2Rpdj4KPHA+SGlzIHN1c3BpY2lvbiB0aGF0IGNlcnRpZmljYXRpb24gaXMgbW9zdGx5IHRvIGRvIHdpdGggbWFya2V0aW5nIGlzIG9uIHJlY29yZCwgYnV0IGFub3RoZXIgdmVyeSBwZXJzb25hbCBhbmQgcG9pZ25hbnQgcGFydCBvZiB0aGUgc3RvcnkgaXMgcmV2ZWFsZWQgYnkgTWF0ZWphOiBoZXIgYnJvdGhlciwgTWloYSwgYmVnYW4gd29ya2luZyB3aXRoIHRoZWlyIGZhdGhlciBpbiB0aGUgZWFybHkgMjAwMHMsIHRoZSBwbGFuIGJlaW5nIHRoYXQgaGXigJlkIHRha2Ugb3ZlciB0aGUgZXN0YXRlIG9uZSBkYXkuIEhlIHdhcyB3b3JraW5nIHRvd2FyZHMgZnVsbCBiaW9keW5hbWljIHByb2R1Y3Rpb24gd2hlbiwgaW4gMjAwOSwgaGUgd2FzIGtpbGxlZCBpbiBhIG1vdG9yY3ljbGUgYWNjaWRlbnQuIOKAmE15IGZhdGhlciBkaWQgbm90IGhhdmUgdGhlIGhlYXJ0IHRvIGNvbnRpbnVlIOKAkyB0aGlzIHdhcyBNaWhh4oCZcyBwcm9qZWN0LOKAmSBzaGUgdGVsbHMgbWUuIFRoZWlyIHNpc3RlciBKYW5hIGlzIG5vdyBpbiBjaGFyZ2Ugb2YgdmluZXlhcmRzLCBhbmQgSeKAmW0gdG9sZCB0aGUgdG9waWMgaXMgb25jZSBhZ2FpbiB1bmRlciBkaXNjdXNzaW9uLjwvcD4KPGRpdiBjbGFzcz0iaW5qZWN0aW9uIj48L2Rpdj4KPHA+TG92ZSB0aGVtIG9yIGhhdGUgdGhlbSwgR3Jhdm5lcuKAmXMgd2luZXMgYXJlIHJlbWFya2FibGUuIEhpcyBzdGFuZGFyZCBSaWJvbGxhLCBmb3IgZXhhbXBsZSwgYW4gYW1iZXIgd2luZSwgaXMgbWFjZXJhdGVkIHdpdGggc2tpbnMgZm9yIHNpeCBtb250aHMgb3IgbW9yZSBhbmQgYWdlZCBmb3Igc2l4IG9yIHNldmVuIHllYXJzIGJlZm9yZSBib3R0bGluZy4gQSBSaXNlcnZhIDIwMDMgaGFzIG9ubHkganVzdCBiZWVuIGludHJvZHVjZWQgdG8gdGhlIG1hcmtldCBhZnRlciAxNCB5ZWFycyDigJMgYW5kIGJvdHRsZWQgb25seSBpbiBtYWdudW0uIEEgdGlueSBwcm9kdWN0aW9uIG9mIHN3ZWV0IFJpYm9sbGEgbmFtZWQgOC45LjEwIGlzIG1hZGUgZnJvbSBib3RyeXRpcyBncmFwZXMgZnJvbSB0aG9zZSB0aHJlZSB2aW50YWdlcywgYm90dGxlZCBvbmx5IGluIDIwMTUuPC9wPgo8cD5WaXNpb25hcnk\/IFBoaWxvc29waGVyPyBJY29ub2NsYXN0PyBZZXMgdG8gYWxsLCBidXQgR3Jhdm5lciBoYXMgc29tZXRoaW5nIHByb2ZvdW5kIHRvIHNheSBhbmQgaXMgcGFydCBvZiBub2JvZHnigJlzIG1vdmVtZW50IG9yIGJhbmR3YWdvbi4gSGUgaXMgYW4gb3JpZ2luYWwgdGhpbmtlci48L3A+CjxoMj48L2gyPgo8cD4K"}
The Gravner difference: six of the best to try
{}
{"wineId":"17378","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"17379","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"17380","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"17381","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"17382","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"17383","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{}
Tom Cannavan is a widely published and awarded wine writer, journalist and broadcaster, and owner of www.wine-pages.com.