The newly released Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 vintage shows – in some examples – the region’s tough, tricky tannins poking through; however, the best examples convey the warmth of the summer through plush fruit and ripe tannins while preserving the fresh acidity and perfume of the cool finish to the growing season.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring new Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 & Riserva 2019 wines

Top-scoring new releases in 2023:

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‘Full of adrenaline’ is how Matteo Vaccari of Cigliano di Sopra described the newly released 2021 Chianti Classico annata. That rush of excitement was palpable throughout the entire ‘Chianti Classico Collection’ anteprime event in Florence this year – and without any Covid restrictions, it was back to a full house.

My verdict after trying well over 200 wines across the annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione categories? Quality continues to soar – as does the number of certified organic wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Michaela’s favourite new Chianti releases

Chianti Classico 2023 reports:

Chianti Classico Annata: New releases in 2023

Chianti Classico Riserva: New releases in 2023

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: New releases in 2023

Chianti Classico: Top recommendations and best-value picks from 2023’s new releases

The wines are listed first by top recommendations then by best-value

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At the apex of Chianti Classico’s quality pyramid, Gran Selezione continues to garner most of the denomination’s attention, disproportionate to its 6% share of the region’s total production.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione releases

Yet it’s difficult not to be transfixed, as the number of new Gran Selezione bottlings has increased considerably in the last couple of years. There are a host of reasons for this, exemplified by several of my recommended wines such as Brancaia, Arillo’s Terrabianca, Riecine’s Vigna Gittori, and Le Cinciole’s Aluigi. Conversations with many other producers promise even more new Gran Selezione to come.

New Chianti Classico releases 2023: Top scoring Gran Selezione

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Long before the Gran Selezione category was introduced, Riserva was the repository for top Chianti Classico. Now sandwiched between the former and a battalion of impressive annata, Riserva’s relevance relies on a strong sense of purpose.

This year, there are plenty of Chianti Classico Riserva releases with a clear identity among the latest 2020 and 2019 vintages.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the new-release Chianti Classico Riservas

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There are always some producers who choose to age their wines in their cellars for longer than required, and tasting these late-release 2020s next to their 2021 counterparts was instructive, as the two vintages have some similarities.

While 2021 was hotter and drier than 2020, harvest wasn’t necessarily earlier, and some producers picked later. Comparing the two, Alyson Morgan at Podere Capaccia in Radda describes 2021 as less stressful. ‘The vines stayed happy and healthy all the way through the season. We started picking Sangiovese on October 1st, which is right on schedule for us.’

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One of 2018’s signatures is its approachability. As such, there is plenty of choice for drinking in 2023. In some cases, these represent delightful wines without sufficient structure for ageing and will be best in the near-term to enjoy their radiant freshness.

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See our score table for all of Michaela’s Brunelo di Montalcino 2018 tasting notes, plus 2017 Riserva & late-release wines

Value and Brunello are not necessarily two concepts that go hand in hand, however the price band for the denomination is large and the overall quality is high. This opens the playing field for those ‘entry price’ Brunello to be considered under these terms – think examples under £70 that make you feel that your money was well spent, especially after they have been cellared for a few years.

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See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Read Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 vintage report

When I arrived at Montalcino’s ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ tastings of the new releases, I was not expecting to taste many Riserva. Sabina Sassetti at Pertimali echoed many of her peers’ reasonings: ‘We only produce Riserva in the best vintages, which generally correspond with those that the consortium awards five stars’ – 2017 was granted four stars.

While the torrid, dry vintage did yield concentrated wines with substantial structure, fully mature flavours and dry tannins did not bode well for lengthy cellaring. ‘2017 isn’t a vintage for ageing; instead, it is for drinking soon,’ concurred Bernardino Sani at Argiano. The focus for many estates was on making the best possible annata Brunello.

Scroll down to see all 17 recommended Riserva and late-release Brunellos

So, it was to my surprise that a generous set of Riserva were on display – 35 in total – yet after tasting through them all, I can honestly say that only a small handful truly distinguished themselves.

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‘Although location was certainly a factor, the vintage really came down to producer.’

What a difference a year makes! Entering Montalcino’s medieval Sant’Agostino Cloister for Brunello’s annual release, my sense of déjà vu quickly disappeared as I tasted through the 2018s. These wines are nothing like the brawny 2017s – Brunellino (‘little Brunello’) was the expression being bandied around by the Italians.

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In the shadow of the 12th century tower of Donoratico and with a view to the Tyrrenhian shoreline, framed by immaculate vineyards and majestic stone pines and cypresses, I sat down in early September to blind-taste 52 Bolgheri Superiore 2020 wines.

Most were still in fairly embyonic states: some had only just been bottled and some were cask samples. Following Superiore’s mandatory two years of ageing (one of which must be in oak barrels), the 2020 wines can legally be released on 1 January 2023 – although some producers intend to hold their wines back for longer ageing.

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After missing out on the full extent of last year’s releases, I was delighted to return to Montepulciano to taste the recently bottled 2019 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and 2018 Riserva. The two vintages made for an interesting comparison in what separates a good vintage from a potentially great one, particularly when the Riserva category is considered.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Vino Nobile di Montepulciano releases

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The annata category represents approximately two-thirds of the Chianti Classico production and it has much to offer – from some of Italy’s best value, everyday drinking wines to some of the denomination’s top examples – such as Isole e Olena and Istine’s single-vineyard bottlings.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chianti Classico 2020 plus late releases from 2019 & 2018

The annual anteprime tasting typically takes place in mid-February, but with the rise of the Omicron variant last winter it was postponed by over a month to the end of March. During this period, many estates bottle their latest annata (which require a minimum of one year of ageing before release) in preparation for the Vinitaly trade show in Verona.

That delay of just a few weeks meant that there were more finished samples than usual. Between the many charming 2020 and numerous exciting late releases from 2019, it was hard to narrow down my recommendations.

I included a trio of 2018s not to be missed – from Le Cinciole, Val delle Corti and Castell’in Villa.

Michaela’s top picks of Chianti Classico 2020 plus late releases from 2019 & 2018

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Chianti Classico’s ‘intermediate’ category, Riserva is as rich in interpretations as it is weighted with opinions.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late releases

Following the letter of the law, minimum ageing is double that of annata – 24 months. Despite no stipulations about the type of ageing vessel, most Chianti Classico Riserva typically matures in oak barrels of one kind or another.

Given Chianti Classico Riserva’s two-year ageing requirements, this March’s tasting was the first official showing of the 2019 vintage – though there are still many yet to be bottled.

Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late release picks:

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Despite representing just 6% of Chianti Classico’s output, its Gran Selezione category steals a much greater share of the spotlight – and never more so than at the region’s tasting of new releases in March.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 & 2018s

With an additional six months of ageing required with respect to the Riserva category, Gran Selezione from the 2019 vintage are just starting to trickle in – I tried the dozen labels that were on display – but with almost 200 Gran Selezione bottlings altogether, there are plenty still to come.

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As I typically visit Tuscany several times a year, it was a long 18 months before I was able to get back to her cherished hills in autumn 2021. I returned again in March of this year for the region’s annual preview of new releases.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Chianti Classico releases 2022

In Chianti Classico, the ‘Collection’ tasting featured 650 labels from 180 estates.

I made a reasonable dent in those numbers, rounding out the two-day event with visits to producers and trying well over 200 wines.

With successes in every category and throughout vintages, Chianti Classico impressed above all with its commitment to organics. A whopping 52.5% of its vineyards are now certified, with many more currently in conversion.

Vino Nobile’s anteprima was more contained, with a blind tasting featuring approximately 40 wines from the most recent vintages. I supplemented this by calling in at a handful of estates, soaking up the landscape I had sorely missed while I sipped on some magnificent 2019s.

Both regions were abuzz with their respective new subdivisions, which provided a backdrop for a deeper-than-ever dive into their multifaceted territories.

Read Michaela’s other Tuscan vintage reports in 2022:

Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 vintage report and top-scoring wines

Chianti Classico 2020 & 2019: New releases

Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late releases

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Chianti Classico releases 2022: Top scorers

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The post Chianti Classico new releases: Best buys in 2022 appeared first on Decanter.

Mother Nature was kind to Montalcino in 2016. The growing season was warm and dry with well-timed sprinkles of rain. Crucially, significant temperature differences between day and night allowed for long, slow and simultaneous ripening of sugars and polyphenols.

In the glass, the annata Brunello exhibited transparency, balance, raciness and beautifully formed tannins with ability to age.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 wines

High expectations

With all the deserved praise, the obvious assumption was that Montalcino’s producers would be unanimous in their decision to release a 2016 Riserva. Opinions, however, were clearly divided. This speaks equally to varying philosophies as it does to the diversity of the region.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016: top wines

View all 43 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 wines, plus two late releases, tasted for this report

See Michaela’s accompanying Brunello di Montalcino 2017 report

View all Tuscany vintage reports

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When I visited Montalcino in late August of 2017, the heat was stifling and the landscape parched.

Banfi’s sizeable artificial lake used for emergency irrigation was almost depleted. Harvest was already underway for Merlot and there were whispers that some estates had started picking Sangiovese as well.

One winemaker described the fermenting vats as jam.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines

2017: The ‘desert’ vintage

‘From June until the end of August, there were almost 20 days above 35°C,’ says Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra.

More than the torrid heat, however, it is drought that characterises the 2017 vintage. ‘It didn’t rain for three months,’ recalls Katia Nussbaum at San Polino. ‘It was like a desert.’ Moreover, the scarcity of water wasn’t just limited to the summer months – lower-than-average rainfall was recorded from the start of the year.

Though arid conditions and soaring temperatures meant that mildew wasn’t an issue in 2017, water stress certainly was. More than ever, it was crucial to keep enough leaves on the vines to shade the grapes.

Fabian Schwartz at La Magia avoided thinning bunches so as not to over-concentrate the berries, and Bernardino Sani identified several changes Tenuta di Argiano has made since 2013 such as soil revitalisation, organic viticulture and less dense plantings. ‘This helped a lot in reducing the impact of drought on the grapes.’ Still, the estate produced 30% less than average.

Francesca Bindocci pointed to ‘the intelligent use of emergency irrigation,’ as Il Poggione is fortunate enough to have a few artificial lakes on its property.

Producers let out a collective sigh of relief when it finally rained at the beginning of September. There was another downpour mid-month. Significantly, precipitation was accompanied by a drop in temperatures, particularly at night, which served to slow down ripening. ‘This allowed us to arrive at harvest with good ripeness of grapes, polyphenols and seeds,’ shares Sara Rossi at Padelletti.

Brunello di Montalcino 2017: top-scoring wines

See all 80 Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines plus five 2016 late releases

See all 80 Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines plus five 2016 late releases

View all Tuscany vintage reports

The post Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

Sitting at the top of the pyramid, Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione classification is inevitably fraught with high expectations. The question is, do the wines live up to them? The answer is not straightforward.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 picks, plus 2017 and 2016 late releases

Sticking points

Wine quality aside, I was disheartened by the number of heavy bottles – both at the Gran Selezione and Riserva levels. Chianti Classico is a leader in sustainability and biodiversity, with 40% of production now certified organic. The region’s top wines should reflect these values. While many do, those in unnecessarily heavy bottles are incongruous.

As for the bigger picture – does Gran Selezione represent the best of the region?

There is no doubt that some of the denomination’s top wines sit at this level, while others – although adhering to the letter of the law – don’t seem to add anything to the idea of being the highest quality classification.

In some cases, I preferred a producer’s Riserva, or found more value in the annata.

In a denomination with over 500 estates of various shapes and sizes, it is challenging for a newly created topmost designation to achieve one-size-fits-all.

According to Tim Schefenacker at Castagnoli, the classification allows larger wineries to showcase their best company wine. ‘It goes without saying that there are some great wines made, but I think the criteria and definition of Gran Selezione is quite contrary to our philosophy and style,’ he says.

Like various other estates, Castagnoli’s top wine is an IGT. Which means that some of the region’s greatest wines still sit outside the denomination.

Change is in the air

Seething underneath all of this is ‘a smell of change,’ describes Le Cinciole’s Luca Orsini. The growers’ consortium is presently working to tighten Gran Selezione regulations.

The proposed requirements would see an increased minimum of Sangiovese from its current 80% and the possible elimination of international grape varieties.

In tandem with this, is a potential, long awaited sub-zonation of the region.

Officially called Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive or UGA, it would essentially be based on existing communes. Alas, at the moment this is only being tabled for Gran Selezione which represents just 6% of Chianti Classico’s production.

As the above proposals have yet to pass, it remains to be seen if they will be enough to lure eligible IGT wines into Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione fold. Nevertheless, it has encouraged Orsini to upgrade Le Cinciole’s Aluigi bottling from Riserva to Gran Selezione with the just released, excellent 2016.

His decision precedes any official change but is rooted in the hope that ‘in the future this classification will put greater emphasis on territory and typicity,’ states Orsini.

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Top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 wines plus late releases:

View all 28 Gran Selezione wines tasted

View all 28 Gran Selezione wines

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The post Best Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 plus late releases appeared first on Decanter.

Sitting between high-calibre annata and ambitious Gran Selezione, Riserva runs the risk of being Chianti Classico’s middle child. And, in some respects, the category does have a bit of an identity crisis.

Riserva represents 32% of Chianti Classico’s production. According to Francesco Mazzei at Castello di Fonterutoli, sales are booming thanks in part to the success of the Gran Selezione category. ‘Gran Selezione is the magnet that attracts people to try the quality of Chianti Classico, and the Riserva are more affordable,’ he declares.

Nevertheless, among the new releases, several producers already showing 2018 Gran Seleziones were just coming out with their 2017 Riserva.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 wines – plus late releases from 2017

How do the categories compare?

Top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 and late releases:

View all 24 Chianti Classico Riserva wines tasted

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Chianti Classico’s ‘Collection’ tasting is an annual opportunity for professionals to get to grips with the newest vintages on the market, providing an opportunity to assess hundreds of wines from the famous denomination.

This year’s tasting ‘Collection’ event is currently touring the globe, taking Chianti Classico wines to the cities of London, Munich, New York, Tokyo, Chicago, and – of course – Florence, allowing the usual crowd of sommeliers, buyers and critics an opportunity to taste these new wines despite restrictions on international travel.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring, newly-released Chianti Classico wines

Chianti Classico latest releases in 2021 include Chianti Classico annata 2019, Chianti Classico Riserva 2018, and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018. Yet many producers choose to mature their wines for longer than the minimum requirements before release, and so we also find wines from 2017 and even 2016 in bottle for the first time.

This report was planned before any of the big Tuscan tastings were announced. In a normal year I would spend a couple of weeks touring the region, visiting producers and attending tastings of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, before compiling the reports for Decanter readers.

Confusion reigned supreme earlier this year, however, and there had been no confirmation that any of the usual tastings would take place or that international travel would be allowed.

So, with the help from Canadian importers and the producers themselves, I was able to amass a large selection of wines at my base in Vancouver from which I was able to produce this set of reports.

The result is a fantastic dive into each of Tuscany’s major denominations.

About Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico has a three-tier classification: annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione.

Quality has improved dramatically in the 25 years since producers were first allowed to make pure Sangiovese wines (since 1996). Marking another step up in quality, white grapes were banned in 2005.

In 2014, the Gran Selezione category was introduced to much fanfare, although a proportion of producers remain sceptical and prefer to bottle their top wines as Riserva – or even IGT – instead.

Chianti Classico releases 2021: top scorers

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The post New Chianti Classico releases: top scorers and best-value picks appeared first on Decanter.